Summer in Prague
I arrived in Prague sweaty from 24 hours of herding students through airports, slightly delirious, yet eager to reunite with a country I had left abruptly due to the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Spending 3-weeks in Prague working as a CIEE (Council on International Educational Exchange) program leader was not only a dream come true — because who doesn’t want to get paid to travel?! — but was also an opportunity for me to work through the unexpected end to my Fulbright year two years prior.
My last memories of leaving Prague, similar to my current arrival, were chaotic. Two years earlier, my last few mornings in Cesky Tesin were full of tears and adrenaline as I struggled with the sudden news that Fulbright would be canceling the program due to the pandemic.
Perhaps because my adrenaline was so high, my memories are crystal clear and painful. Two days full of appointments at the bank and post office with my gracious mentor translating for me, a final lunch with Sarah at an empty cafe full of more questions and long pauses then answers, a tearful goodbye at the train station from colleagues who showed me more love and patience than I can express, and an empty 4-hour train ride alone to Prague where finally, I met up with a few friendly but also confused faces.
Even at the airport leaving Prague, my fellow Fulbright cohort members were already planning how we would get back to the Czech Republic. Obviously, the pandemic delayed those plans more than any of us could have predicted at the time. When the world began to settle once again, I began my googling immediately.
I had begun searching for programs abroad in late winter of 2021. When I saw that CIEE, a non-profit NGO that also runs many college study abroad programs, offered high schoolers a program based in Prague, I was instantly hooked. I spent hours reading about the program options, watching Youtube videos of the programs, and working on my application.
It took a few months to hear back and my “yes” was instant. Two years later, it was time for my second chance to visit and then say goodbye to the lovely Czech Republic properly.
Morning class
Our group was set up in the beautiful Vinohrady neighborhood in Prague 2 with close access to many cafes, shops, and restaurants and great access to the tram and metro. And absolutely critical – near an amazing ice cream shop.
Our rooms were “apart” hotel style. In other words, all rooms had their own small kitchens and sitting areas in addition to a bedroom space with a twin bed for each individual. The other program leader and I each had our own individual rooms while the students were in doubles or triples. The space was outfitted in a basic fashion (and without A.C. as is common across Europe), but comfortable and spacious.
The morning phone alarm set the first part of the day in motion: getting ready for art school. Students chose to either eat the free basic breakfast at the hotel or grab something from a cafe or corner store. Some impressive individuals even went on morning jogs through the lovely parks and gardens of the city.
The first days of class involved a more active role on my part. Drag myself out of bed, send a Whatsapp message reminder of what gear to pack for the day, quickly eat and down some coffee, gather the students in the outdoor courtyard, knock on doors of those still sleeping, answer a million and one questions about the plan for that day.
Then, it was time to guide the group and zig-zag across the neighborhood about 10 minutes by foot to a local art school. Once the students were inside and safely in the presence of local Czech art educators, the hard work paused. Now came time to follow up with any sick students, fill out paperwork regarding the well-being of students, think about blog content for CIEE’s website for the week, and take a moment to breathe.
When paperwork was complete, I spent the morning class hours, which lasted from about 8:30-11:30, doing some journaling and sketching on my own and exploring the nearby neighborhood streets.
I reveled in little finds like the cute farmer’s market in the square across the road, this beautiful Italian grotto at a nearby park, and watching well-behaved dogs play off-leash in regular public spaces.
Group lunch
At 11:30 we grouped back up for lunch and walked another 10 minutes further to a local lunch spot where we ate every day from Monday-Friday. Here began one of my never-ending tasks: tracking food orders. We had students fill out food orders weekly for group meals and magically, they always forgot their orders.
For me, group meals meant sending another Whatsapp message with the lunch orders of the day, checking in with students who weren’t feeling well, communicating to-go orders or changes in orders to the restaurant staff, and making any adjustments necessary for the next part of the day.
Language lessons + Afternoon cultural activity
After lunch, our days were more varied. Students took beginner Czech lessons 3x per week at the CIEE office building overlooking the stunning Vyšehrad Castle and park grounds. Not a bad place to spend time! I loved walking the gardens and taking a moment to pause and admire the view while the students had their lesson.
The only downside to the location was the trek between our lunch spot and the office building. The journey took about 35 minutes and involved walking and two tram stops. While this type of route is part of everyday life for Prague dwellers, many of our exhausted students found their growing step count a challenge in the heat of summer. Part of my duty included being the cheerleader and person to rant to when students could not POSSIBLY imagine having to trudge back down to the metro to cross the city once again.
Afternoon cultural experiences were definitely a highlight as a program leader. We participated alongside the students in many activities that I wouldn’t have tried on my own, but loved having the opportunity to experience. These afternoon workshops ranged from sketching in the garden, to art museum visits, to a castle tour, to a Czech cooking class.
After walking 15-20,000+ steps a day, the Czech cooking class was a treat. I was more than ready to delve into some of my Fulbright-year favorites again and happily took photos of students and prepared my stomach for Czech classics.
Dinner
By dinner time, we’re all worn out and ready to sit and soak in the adventures of the day. We alternate between scheduled group dinners in whatever neighborhood we’ve ended up in post-activity and free evenings. On free evenings, my job is quite simple. I help guide students in the right direction on public transportation, stay in the area where most students are eating/shopping, and relish in some alone-time in the city.
Group dinners run similarly to lunch. I feel like a waiter’s assistant and practice my teacher glare when students don’t raise their hands to claim their meal when it’s brought out. Some students struggle with adjusting to new foods, so post-meals almost always involve making sure some students have eaten enough and guiding students towards nearby grocery shops or pharmacy’s.
Evening
Finally, evening has arrived! Students exit the restaurant the moment they finish their food, eager to either finally rest back at the hotel or explore the city on their own time. Their curfew is 9pm on weekdays and 10 on the weekends. Thankfully, the students are respectful and responsible and manage to keep out of trouble.
As a Program Leader, evening time is similar. The other Program Leader and I coordinate to make sure the students receive support and that we can also recharge. One of us stays in the hotel area while the other in town. I spend my free evenings grabbing ice cream, meeting up with a couple of connections from my Fulbright year, and occasionally crashing early in bed with an episode of Taskmaster.
Most evenings are uneventful and allow the necessary rest for another long day tomorrow. However, a few crisis arise throughout the 3 weeks. A student experiences a mental health emergency that we support, a Covid outbreak begins and rooms must be changed and plans adjusted, and sometimes students have a myriad of questions.
While there are stressful moments, they are outweighed by the many new friends, beautiful scenery, and art-filled activities. On our final evening, a group of students and I walk to a nearby hilly park and watch the sunset then kick a soccer ball around. It’s the last night and the students are full of emotions. Already, they have become attached to their favorite pizza shop, the freedom that comes from being halfway across the world, the jewelry store across the street with the nice workers, and each other. At one point, we pause our soccer game and join hands with a group of Czech people dancing around in a circle to traditional music.
In this moment, I don’t feel like an adult with responsibilities supporting the health and well-being of 30 high schoolers. I’m simultaneously a young high-schooler again and a young adult on my Fulbright year. I have no worries except stopping by the corner store to grab a bottle of juice and maybe a bar of chocolate. The sun sets and I begin my own walk home, letting the others relish in their last outing with one another.
The next morning is a jumble of suitcases and “TRIPLE CHECK THAT YOU HAVE YOUR PASSPORT!” and tearful student goodbyes. This time, when I head to the airport, I’m not alone. I wave goodbye to the Prague Castle as we cross over the bridge. This time, I have a last sunset to remember. Friends will ask, “how was your summer?” and I’ll think of dancing with strangers, of running in the park, and of creating art.
Travel Through Literature 
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